It’s best to align the wheel and anchor as straight as you can get it so the tyre can drive straight up it. Don’t forget that if you use them on your front wheels you can steer into them, so the anchor point can be off to either side.
It also depends on how far you have to move the vehicle before it gets normal traction again. The vast majority of bogs require less than a metre. If the anchor doesn’t line up, it doesn’t really matter as long as you don’t allow the BOG OUT to cross the tread face and get around the diff etc.
The BOG OUT is designed as a harness for your tyre, and the tyre fits into it, so it doesn’t just ‘pop off’ the tyre. Just take it slow and check it. If it starts to get over the tread face then you can just yank it back into the correct position, or even tie a guy rope to pull it straighter.
We’ve found that the anchor point needs to be a lot less strong than you’d expect and we use saplings down to about an inch or so, even for steep inclines. This is because the BOG OUT pulls from the very lowest possible point of the vehicle ie the bottom of the tyre and lies in the bog (which also takes some load) and pulls along the ground and connects at the base of the anchor.
Pulling a small sapling through the ground, as BOG OUT does, offers a much stronger anchor than if you try to pull it up like from a mounted or hand winch, or block and tackle which is more likely to just bend the sapling over and strip off the bark etc.
We’ve done a lot of testing with load cells and computers to determine just how much load an anchor needs to hold for various recoveries, and we’ve found the BOG OUT system requires a lot less than other methods.